P1 Trackside
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P1 Tuners

Trackside

Race your build — and the tools for everything you do standing next to the car.

Saved runs

No runs saved yet. Read a slip on the Strip screen and press Save this run.

Send to P1

Everything you've entered stays on this phone. Nothing is uploaded anywhere. To send it, copy the block below into a text or an email to the shop.

Press Build it.

Add to your home screen

In Safari, tap the Share button, then Add to Home Screen. It opens full screen like an app and works with no signal — useful, because most tracks have none.

Distance

The slip

Take a photo of the slip, flat and filling the frame. It reads the lane set under The run.

The run

Tap the tree to stage

.--- Reaction time

Tree

How you are doing

Each bar is one run — taller is slower. Full-height red bars are red lights.

The read

Make a few runs and this will tell you whether you are late, early, or just inconsistent — which need different fixes.

Your car's delay

This trainer times your thumb, and a real tree times the front wheels clearing the stage beam. If you know your car adds, say, four hundredths between your foot and the beam, put .040 here and the number above becomes what the scoreboard would show. Leave it at zero to train pure reaction. Red lights are judged on your input either way — the trainer cannot know your car.

What this is and is not

Reaction time does not affect elapsed time. The clock starts when the car moves, so a bad light costs round wins, never ET — and no tune change improves it. This is the one thing on the slip that is entirely the driver.

A phone screen adds a few thousandths of its own between your thumb and the timer, so treat the absolute number as approximate. What carries over honestly is the spread: a driver who can repeat .020 here can repeat it at the track, and consistency is what wins rounds.

Nothing to replay yet

Type a time slip on the Strip screen and press Analyse. This screen then runs that pass down the track against the pass your trap speed says you had in it.

Type anything — symptoms, readings like “13.1 volts under load” or “afr 13.4 at 6k”, codes like P0299. Ask “why?” or “what do I check?” whenever you want.

Dyno

Considering

Your setup

The car

Photo of the VIN plate (bottom of the windshield), the door-jamb sticker or your registration. It fills in what it can.

Last dyno figure

From the Virtual Dyno in your P1 portal. Without it, trap speed can't be checked against what the car actually makes.

What stays on the desktop

The Virtual Dyno and datalog analysis run in your P1 portal on a computer. Those chew through logs with hundreds of thousands of rows, which is a laptop job, not a phone one. This app is for the things you do standing next to the car.

Build your tune

Dial in the character you want — slide each one and watch the curve move. Push a slider into the red and it's a max-effort ask with trade-offs, not a free win. This is your wish list, not a flash: P1 builds and verifies the real calibration safely on the dyno.

Camshaft

Cam timing

Lopey idle down low, more pull up top.

Spark plug

Ignition timing

More spark advance where the engine can use it for power.

The band is the margin P1 proves out against your fuel and knock sensors on the dyno.

Fuel injector

Fueling

Trade a little safety pad for best-power air/fuel.

Lower AFR is richer and safer; best power sits around 12.5–12.8 on pump gas. P1 sets the final number safe for your combo.

Torque management

How hard the computer holds torque back. Slide up to pull it out — the line drops.

The lower the line, the less the computer is holding you back. Pulling it all the way out frees power but loads the trans and driveline harder — P1 sets limits that are safe for your build.

Your build

Your picks also ride along on the Home screen's Send to P1 block.

Staging Lanes

Your car

Race
Tyres
Distance
Other lane

Tap on green · tap to shift when the lights flash · tyres let go? hold to feather